The
fiberglass hood needs material added to the edges to tighten up the
gaps. The edge of the hood is first beveled with a grinder so the
fiberglass cloth will more surface to adhere to.
Masking
tape supports the 'glass from underneath. Once the first layer of
'glass has set up it will be stiff enough to support additional layers.
The cured 'glass is ground flat with top of the hood and then a light coat of fiberglass filler is applied.
The hood is trimmed to size in steps. There is nothing worse than cutting too much off and having to add on again.
The
hood is now test fitted in place without the hinges. It is supported
with bolts whose height can be adjusted to level the hood with the
fenders. Things are beginning to look quite good at this point.
The
hood on the driver side was still too high with no more adjustment to go
down. To solve this, a section of the apron which included the hinge
mounting points was cut out and lowered. This created a gap at the top
which was later filled with sheet metal. The fiberglass hood must be a
bit taller than the factory steel hood.
Once the hood is in final position, the front corners are reformed to match with the headlight bezels.
The trunk is now fitted and gaps are all aligned.
These holes are for the air ducting that is designed to cool the brakes. A fiberglass scoop will bolt on over the scallop area.